May 4th, 2016: Day 9
Today we went to the Wynn Nature Center, Islands and Oceans, and the Pratt Museum.
We reviewed some topics and learned about others! Topics we reviewed included the four types of spruce, especially the Lutz Spruce, the Spruce Bark Beetle, lichens, Pushkee (cow parsnip), and the Willow's role in a common Alaskan moose diet.

Topics that were new included the purpose of Animal Corridors, varying flora and fauna, and Alaskan history. Animal corridors are paths that multiple species utilize for food and water sources, regardless of their position in the food chain. Willow roses are structures in which nymphs lay eggs in the willow. The wasps in the area are aware of this process and consequently lay their eggs within the nymph. The nymph then serves as a food source for the developing wasp eggs. The birds we learned about were the white-eyed Junco, Stellar Jay, and Wilson's Snipe. We were introduced to these birds' calls and appearances. We learned that Black Spruce trees prefer acidic soil and that Alder trees are flexible. This flexibility makes them stronger against soil disturbances and thus an important tree in mountainside environments that are prone to avalanches. Spruces frequently grow out of other fallen spruces, called "nursery logs," and provide food sources to many animals in the forest community. Snowshoe hares eat the spruce needles, squirrels eat the cones, and many other woodland creatures eat the bark. Although the moose do not typically eat the spruce, they do eat the willow during the winter months. This causes their scat to essentially be pelleted sawdust during January and February. This period of willow eating also serves as a beneficial pruning to the willows.

As a review, Alaska officially gained statehood in 1959. Due to this later time, it's Homestead Act ended in 1989, or the same year as the Exxon oil spill in Prince William Sound, Alaska. The Homestead Act (reminder of everyone's US History class) encouraged individuals to come to an area of land and maintain 140 acres of land. The land was free if maintained for five years with a settlement on it. This encouraged many people in post-WWII to venture up to Alaska. Who wouldn't want to with these gorgeous views?! (and cold winters, harsh growing seasons, and unpredictable seasons)

At the second location, we learned that Spruce Aphids are another source of mortality in spruce. Unlike the beetles, the aphids destroy the spruce through the needles (captured below, top). Near the estuary, we encountered many new species of organisms. Yaro, a common grass-like plant, serves as a natural blood coagulant. Within the estuary, the bacteria, if properly functioning, produced an oily substance that floated atop the water. There were high concentrations of iron in the water which caused the water to have a ruddy-brown tone (captured below, bottom).

At the third location, the Pratt Museum, the class learned about Alaskan history and animal life. The Native groups to the Kachemak Bay region are the Alutiq and Dena'ina, which are also two of the four languages spoken in the area, with English and Russian being the others. Tools that were used by the indigenous people to hunt, especially in hunting seals for their nutrient rich blubber, included the quiver, the seal spear, and the throwing board.

Also at the Pratt Museum we were introduced to the severity of the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill that harmed the ecosystems and economies of Americans everywhere. Duh duh duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. The oil spill was caused by the Exxon Valdez ship wrecking onto the coast of the Prince William Sound bay, 25 miles south of Bligh Reef, causing 11 million gallons of oil to pour out of the ship. Clean up crews responded slowly and no one wanted to take responsibility to restore the waters, causing only 4% of the spill to have been cleaned after multiple weeks. Decades later, approximately 20 acres of land are still directly impacted by the spill and 58% of the 91 original sites still have oil present. Captain Hazelwood, who was in charge of the ship when the wreck occurred, was found guilty of drunk driving soon after the spill, although he appealed the case. Exxon never truly took responsibility for the mishap. While the event was extremely unfortunate, it prepared the world for other oil spills and how to best approach them.

Thanks a bunch for coming along on our exciting and splendiferous journey.
This is Katie and Mallori, signing out. TTFN <3

Alaska Day 8

Today we drove onto the Homer spit and took a boat ride over to the Kachemak Bay State Park. At the park we started off with a short walk along then beach, then headed into the Alaskan forests to embark on a 6 mile hike. Along the way we came across a hand tram. In order to cross a river and eat lunch we had to use the hand tram. It was a basket big enough for three people that was attached to a rope that you pulled in order to cross the river. It was strenuous on the arms to pull the tram across the river and back, but the view on the ride and at the lunch spot was well worth the effort. Once our bellies were full and our arms were tired we continued to hike on towards a glacier. The walk to the glacier was tiring and rocky, but when we got there the view of the glacier took our breath away. We learned that the surrounding vegetation was growing at unequal rates because there was an avalanche that caused the bay to rush over the vegetation - killing it. We ended our adventure at Kachemak Bay State Park by hiking over a mountain to reach the beach below. At the beach we met up with a Taxi boat to take us back to Homer. On the boat we met a cute black lab named Selkie. The puppy slept on Dr. Stilts the entire ride back. Once we arrived safely back in Homer we spent a half an hour shopping then headed to Save-You-More to stock up on groceries. We ended the day relaxing around the cabin.

Elizabeth Dano and Jessica Rynders

Day 5: Impromptu Free Day!

The water was a little too rough today for half of our group to go deep-sea fishing. So, for our impromptu free-day, we had a couple of rounds of trips to The Homer Spit, a quaint boating and fishing village with the cutest little shops. The small group that we were with stopped into Captain Patties for a quick bite to eat. Upon looking at the menu, we determined that it was a little classier than we were prepared for and just ordered a couple of appetizers… which were delicious. The view wasn’t too bad either:

Abby W. and Katie G.

Day 6: Gone Fishing!

Today the waters in Cook Inlet cooperated enough to get eight members of the group into a couple of boats and head out to do some deep sea fishing. Our group was led out by a couple of local fishermen to a few spots they were sure we could catch some descent sized salmon and halibut. The ride out was a little frigid, so luckily there was plenty of room in the cabin to keep warm. After a short ride out, we found a spot and started fishing.

Deep sea fishing was different than either of us had experienced. Rather than holding onto and casting the pole as is done with fresh water fishing (which we had both done plenty of times before), the pole was set into a holder and the bait, green herring in this case, was cast down into the water using a submerging device. After the herring was submerged, we sat (or stood) and waited, watching the pole for a clear jerk or dip. Once this happened we jumped up and grabbed the poles. Reeling in the fish was a smoother, but more difficult process. It seemed to take much more effort and time to reel them in, which makes sense when you see the size of some of these fish!

Unfortunately, we started off catching nothing but these ugly-looking scrawny fish called Pollock; which were no good for eating and just a frustrating waste of time and energy. The trip out to sea also took an unexpected turn as one member of the group was not able to keep their breakfast down, nor really keep lively for the remainder of the expedition. The waters were still pretty rough and motion sickness is no joke, man.

Between the two boats, a total of six king salmon were caught. The water was a little too rough to drop anchor for halibut fishing, though we did end up catching four smaller ones anyways. After going back to shore, we headed out to one of the guide’s homes to watch the guides process the fish. One of them described halibut as “made to fillet” because the main part of their body is split into four easy-to-fillet sections. The cheek of the halibut was also saved and was described the “filet mignon” of the fish because of how tender that region is due to its lack of use. Most of the salmon were red meat, however one had white meat which indicates that it comes from a specific Canadian river. We had one of the salmons filleted on the spot and took it back to the cabins for dinner. The remaining fish we had sent off with a local who will fillet and freeze them for us to take back to New York.

Here are some photos of the fish we each caught and a video of the guides processing our catch:

Day 7
Today was a relaxing day spent mostly on the home base. Throughout the day we had three separate presentations, and what turned into well-deserved snack/badminton/nap breaks between each.
The first of these presentations was given by Brian Carey, the project manager for the Susitna Dam initiative, a representative for the Alaska Energy Authority. Mr. Carey’s presentation was largely the opposite of the one the Susitna River Coalition gave only a few days ago, focusing mainly on the reasons the Susitna Dam should be built. Among these is the fact that controlling the flow of the Susitna would allow for hydroelectric power to be gathered from the river, which would ultimately provide energy for several surrounding villages. While the investment into such projects and obtaining the energy may be at first costly, energy obtained from water-power will “remain at the same price” while other sources of energy, such as fuel, may later spike in price based on demand. During his presentation, Mr. Carey also explored other sources of energy, and other projects, and why they may not work as well as water power in Alaska. Unfortunately, wind power does not yield great energy in Alaska due to large variation in wind speed and occurrence, and the inability of natural conditions to keep the turbine spinning. Solar power, along the same lines, is hindered by the large fluctuations in daylight hours and general comparative weakness of sun rays in Alaska. With that- hydroelectric is cited to be the most efficient means of renewable energy in Alaska, despite the many cons of specific projects which we had already been made aware of. The presentation left many of us questioning our views of a possible lose-lose situation.

The second presentation of the day was given by Corin Ogle, the lovely granddaughter of our very own temporary landlord. Corin gave a rundown of another project currently in the works, the construction of the Pebble Mine. The Pebble Mine site is currently the largest known source of copper and gold, and the second largest we have ever discovered. The waste pits for this mining site, if constructed, would be among the top ten largest human-made structures- eventually holding over ten billion tons of “waste”- i.e. whatever is left behind from long term mining ventures.
Bristol Bay, the proposed site of the Pebble Mine, is known for its pure and undisturbed wildlife. The watershed contains 29 different species of fish, 190 types of birds, and 40 terrestrial mammal species- representing many of these in their purest and most natural form. In this vast area all five species of salmon are represented, and the area serves as spawning sites for 46% of all the world’s wild salmon. This means that every year, 60 million salmon work their way to Bristol Bay to spawn their young! The 31 native villages still operating in the area are relatively self-sustaining due to these immense natural resources.
The sides of this argument are difficult ones, which is why much research has been done on the possible impact of the Pebble Mine. Just recently the Environmental Protection Agency decided that the detriments the mine would pose to the natural life greatly outweigh the 200 billion dollar potential worth of the mining site. For now, however, the issue remains unresolved, as upon hearing the results of the EPA study, the Pebble Partnership essentially sued the discovery, pushing again for permission to build their giant mine. Stay strong Bristol Bay, stay strong.

After a nice longer break, the final presentation of the day provided the group with the special policies and activities necessary to maintain and preserve the Arctic climate which exists in much of Alaska. Our presenter started with the basics of the region, ensuring to us that protection of the Arctic was much more than simply looking out for Santa Clause and his elves. Much of the Alaskan Arctic is owned by Russia, Canada, the United States, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Iceland and Greenland, all of which have created a taskforce of sorts to preserve the area and make collective decisions about its use. The resulting Arctic Counsel, which also includes six native representatives, compiles information and reports regarding the area, guiding public and foreign policy. The group aims to create “One Arctic” where all stakeholders have the same core goals in mind- and take all specialized needs and resources in the region seriously.
After a long hard day of learning (and snacking) the starving groups went their separate ways to find (more) food. The Stilts crew took a trip to the grocery store, while the Smith clan took a trip to Homer, where we visited the Carribou Family Diner, where many members of the group had their first taste of caribou and bison burgers! On the way to Homer we stopped along a scenic pull-off, and snapped a few family photos. Note the rainbow and majestically Soaring Eagle (This one is for you EC).

     

Abby W. and Katie G. 

Day Four: Renewable Energy Sources, Coal Mining, and the Susitna River Dam

We started today with two presentations right in the cabins. The first presentation talked about the cons of the Susitna River Dam on the community, ecosystems, and Alaska in general. The second was on the responsibility of coal in the Alaskan energy demand and the misconceptions around coal mining that do not necessarily extend past the lower 48.
 

Ellen and Doug came all the way from Telkeetna, Alaska to speak on behalf of the Susitna River Coalition whose mission statement is to stop the proposed Susitna mega dam through collaboration, education, advocacy and awareness of the values of an intact Susitna watershed and eventually to establish permanent protection for the river. The Susitna River Coalition started as a group of 5 people in 2012 that through grass root efforts such as booths at the state fair and sports shows was able to grow the organizations numbers to around 5,000 people in 2014 and eventually approximately 20,000 people in 2016. There were many interesting facts that were presented during this talk about the dam and the Susitna River itself. Some of which being that the dam would only allow a third to one forth the original water to flow in the summer months, the dam itself would power one half if urban Alaska and would be located 184 miles up from the mouth of the river past devil’s canyon. The dam would be load-barring meaning that the dam would let water out when energy need is high and conserve water when its low, meaning that the water level of the river would fluctuate between 10-12 feet. The Susitna River itself is a glacier fed river which means that the ecosystem itself depends on ice and the placement of a dam on this river would block the formation of ice that’s needed by the fish and the ecosystem due to the constant movement of water to produce power. Other interesting facts that were presented was the fact the the state of Alaska has spent almost $193 million on research alone on studies about the dam and the expected cost of the dam is approximatively $6 billion that would come from public funds usually allocated to education and public works such as libraries. Another fact that was brought up was the effect that dams have had on the salmon population in the lower 48 and the fact that the placement of the Susitna River Dam would have on the salmon population in Alaska would be detrimental. https://vimeo.com/144622860
 Ellen and Doug from the Susitna River Coalition holding up a picture of the Susitna River and the logo designed by a local artist.

The second presentation of the day was given by Dan and Lorali, on the uses and benefits of Alaskan coal, from the Alaskan Coal Association. They started their presentation with breaking down the Nationwide Energy Balance and the categories of fuels used to produce energy demand.

There is no denying that the landscape of energy use needs to change to more viable options, coal, oil, and gas have a known expiration date. Oil and natural gas is expected to run dry in about 50 years while coal is expected in 100 years. However high the need for renewable energy to replace these old methods, renewable energy goes hand-in-hand with coal and oil. The materials needed to make renewable energy like metals and ores come from the coal mines. Some misconceptions that arise from coal mining is that it is dirty and causes pollution and leaves the land in which its mined from in shambles and destroyed. Alaska’s coal is low in sulfur and mercury, which is the cause of most pollution, and lowers the level of emissions. Alaskan mining procedure includes using reclamation to leave the land in which the coal is mined in pristine conditions. Usebelli Mining company is a perfect example of this. Although the Usebelli Mines have been doing this for years it wasn’t until 1983 when the ASCMCRA was passed in Alaska that dictated the the reclamation procedure had to be enacted in every mine. This law also made it so that for every ton of coal mined, mines paid a commission that would be used to clean up and reclamate old abandoned mines.


Dan and Lorali from the Alaska Coal Association standing in front of the slideshow they used to present the facts about energy use in Alaska.

After lecturing all morning, we had a nice relaxing evening in which we went to Anchor Point Beach to explore the coast line near us. We were allowed to explore and just relax for a couple hours while taking pictures and just observing in general the beauty that is the Alaskan Coast. After returning from the beach we had a cookout that was put on by the property owner’s family of which the cabins we are staying in and finished the night with either badminton or volleyball, depending on preference.

Baily Williams

Day Three:
Peterson Bay Field Station – Centre for Alaskan Coastal Studies (CACS). Homer, Alaska
On the south shore of Kachemak Bay lies the Peterson Bay Field Station. Founded in 1982, the goal of the field station is to introduce people of all ages to the coastal environments and various species of Peterson Bay and China Poot Bay. The naturalist guides at the CACS provide visitors with direct experiences with organisms within the environment and, also, the CACS looks to promote protection of the environment. With a total of nine trails that expand the length of the peninsula, visitors can view the mountains on the distance, a ghost forest, a bog, a native house site, a lagoon, and dense forest areas. Visitors are also offered the option to spend the night in yurts that are located next to the field station.
Inside the field station, on the upper floor, there is a small lab where visitors can examine the microscopic species that are present in the water of Peterson Bay. Allowing visitors to identify the microorganisms in the water actually has multiple advantages. People who have never used a microscope can learn how to use a microscope and the naturalists keep track of what types of organisms visitors stumble across. If any new species is observed in the area or if the species already on the peninsula are observed acting abnormal, the naturalists can make a note and further investigate what the problem could be. Constant observation of the species on land or in the water could lead to early identification of potential diseases which would allow for early treatment of the disease, in an attempt to preserve the species present.
Our hike took us along low tide trail, flatlands trail, and Wong trail. Along these trails, we observed many interesting spots. The ghost forest consists of trees that absorbed too much salt from the water which caused them to die. An open area with a sparse number of white, decaying trees was formed from the salt water rushing into the area during high tide. A native house site can be found at the top of a cliff that hangs over China Poot Bay. Although, in the present, a large tree takes up most of the site, the site served as a home for many native Alaskan families. The location of the house allowed the family to have ample access to a major resource, the bay.
Across the lagoon lies Otter Rock. During low tide, small tide pools are formed that leave species trapped and allow visitors to observe them. We spent time flipping over rocks and finding species such as hermit crabs, sea urchins, and sea stars. The muscle covered rock formation was slippery and hard to maneuver, but it was a dynamic example of the types of species that are present in the water of Peterson Bay.

Rachael Planishek

Day Two: Wildfire Prevention

            Today, we arrived bright and early at the Kenai Peninsula Refuge Center. There, we were first introduced to the history of the Kenai Peninsula. Compared to other territories, settlers did not appear in Alaska until the mid to late 1700s. The Peninsula is made up of two different, distinct climates: a boreal forest and a temperate forest. These areas vary in average rainfall and temperature. The boreal forest, on the Western side of the Kenai Peninsula, is more often colder and drier. Due to environmental factors of the boreal forest, the region is very prone to forest fires.  By analyzing fire scars on trees, scientists have been able to identify the location and the year of past forest fires. Many significant fires occurred in the 20^th century following high numbers of human settlement in 1920s. In 1947, there was a human caused forest fire that burned over 300,000 acres. The Kenai Peninsula experienced a significant drought in 1968 where there was a 60% drop in the available water in the environment. This was followed by the 1969 fire that burnt 86,000 acres. Most recently, the Funny River Fire occurred in 2014 and burnt 200,000 acres of the refuge. The Funny River Fire was important for better understanding the effectiveness of fire prevention in wilderness.

            There are a few different types of preventative measures that can taken in order to aid in fighting wildfires. Firebreaks are natural or manmade changes in the environment that change the available fuel. The objective of these firebreaks is to make it so the fire can be better controlled. In the Funny River fire there were three important firebreaks that allowed the fire to be controlled and prevented it from spreading to residential districts. There are masticated firebreaks in which all the vegetation is removed, shaded firebreaks that are thinned areas of the forest and natural firebreaks such as lakes.

Moreover, wildfires are important to the Alaskan ecology. In the aftermath of these fires, new vegetation will grow. Moose are particular fans of the buds found on the juvenile aspen and willow trees. Regardless, wildfire prevention is necessary to protect the communities here in Alaska. It’s the job of both the homeowners and the government to work together in order to fully protect the beautiful land of the Kenai Peninsula.

Jessica Tiner and Kristin Gilbert

Here is a photo from of our group at the Paterson Field Station in Katchemak Bay.